Breaking up is hard to do…

Way back in the mists of time, that is, early April, I and colleagues deployed some instruments on the sea ice in front of a number of glaciers in Northern Greenland, which I wrote a little bit about here.

Trusted global GPS tracker buoy
Open met buoy

Since then I’ve mostly been letting them get on with reporting their data back and occasionally checking on the satellite imagery to see how it’s looking in their surroundings.

It was about -30C and very cold when I left them out, so it’s sometimes quite hard to visualise just how much things will change over only a few months and to remember that at some point, they’ll need collecting

After a fairly melty start (yes, that is actually a technical term) to July, particularly in the northern part of the ice sheet (which you can see on the polarportal, see also below right) it’s time to start anticipating their collection.

We have a lot of advantages when it comes to coordinating this kind of project now, compared to the bad old days when imagery and communication were both scarce and expensive

For starters, there is Sentinel Hub’s EO browser, a course in which should be a requirement for every earth science adjacent subject in my opinion. EO Browser produces superb pre-processed imagery for free, such as this one, from the European Space Agency’s Sentinel-2 satellite yesterday

As you can see, the sea ice is still there but fracturing and patches of open water (in blue green) are now becoming visible.

Sentinel 2 satellite image processed on EO browser showing sea ice and ice bergs in front of Tracy and Farquhar glaciers.

If you’re out and about and only have your phone, there is also the excellent snapplanet.io app on your smartphone, with which you can create instagram ready snapshots of the planet or even animated gifs, with high resolution imagery a link away…

Now that’s what I call a fun social media* application…

Animated gif of satellite images showing the front of Heilprin glacier with icebergs and landfast sea ice.

Anyway, back to the break up. Every year, the sea ice forms in the fjord from October/November onwards, by December it’s often thick enough to travel on and then from April it starts to thin and melt and by late June large cracks are starting to form, allowing the surface meltwater to drain through. For a look at what happens if you get a large amount of melt from, say, a foehn wind, before the cracks start to open up, see this iconic photo taken by my colleague Steffen Olsen in 2019.

An extremely rare event, that nevertheless went viral

The other advantage we have working in this fjord is our collaboration with the local hunters and fishers. In winter they use dog sleds for hunting and accessing fishing sites, and to take us and our equipment out on to the ice. In summer, they are primarily using boats for fishing, hunting narwhal and, hopefully, collecting our equipment! Our brilliant DMI colleague Aksel who lives and works in the local settlement is also a huge help in assisting with communication and generally being able to get hold of things and people when asked.

Winter travel

We offer a reward for each buoy that is found and brought back to our base in Qaanaaq, so many of them in fact make their own way home. But we also work with our friends on a kind of remote treasure hunt, challenge Anneka style, with someone at home watching their positions come in via the satellite transmissions and sending updated information via sms to an iridium phone to the hunters on the boat…

I’m told it’s tremendous fun, with sharp eyes required, as even a bright orange plastic globe can be challenging to spot.

A floating trusted buoy in 2022.

I’ve never participated in this treasure hunt myself sadly, on land we generally see something like a spaghetti of arrows and spots via the Trusted global web api:

GPS positions from a trusted buoy.

We then have to try and superimpose these movements on the latest satellite images to work out if the buoy is floating or not, and then check to see if there is sufficient open water for a collection. Naturally working with local knowledge for this part is also absolutely vital.

One of our buoys is found…

The latest satellite images look like the ice has already broken up into large flakes close to Qaanaaq. I’ve annotated the Sentinel-1 image below as it is from a radar satellite that can see through clouds and the images can be a bit confusing if you’re not used to looking at them.

The scale of the massive melt on the ice sheet from the last few days is clearly visible in the dark grey rim on the glaciers. The open sea water is black and the sea ice shows up as geometric greys. This one is downloaded from the automatic archive my colleagues at DMI maintain around the whole coast of Greenland. It can be a handy quick check too.

Annotated satellite image of Kangerlussuaq/Inglefield Bredning (Gulf of Inglefield) fjord. The orange box shows where our study glaciers are located.

So, although the ice is starting to break up it’s at the tricky stage where it’s far from navigable by dog sled and certainly too difficult for boats, so it’s not quite the time to send out hunting parties for GNSS buoys.

It also means that when I go on holiday next week, I will not be quite leaving all this behind. I and my colleague in this project will be monitoring the movements of the buoys and the satellite pictures, as well as relying on our friends in the local community to let us know how the ice is looking and if they can get out to rescue our brave little sensors.

In the mean time I have plenty of data to start analysing and writing up. As ever massive thanks to the people of Qaanaaq and my cool colleagues for putting up with me and our GPS buoys. We hope to submit our first paper pretty soon..

Hopefully I’ll soon be able to look at a map like this one to see where they are (note that the precision on these buoy positions isn’t great, probabaly because they were thenbeing stored in a metal container).

*Yes, I’m probably a nerd. I’m a lot of fun** at parties too though.

**For a given value of “fun”.

Icebergs of Ilulissat

Icebergs in Ilulissat drift around the bay, sometimes fast, sometimes slow, sometimes they don’t move at all. They are drenched in the beautiful but sometimes stark light of the polar day. It’s scientifically interesting to watch them and speculate on their past trajectory and their likely future. It’s also extremely beautiful.

I’m once more on my way north to Qaanaaq, but this time I’ve been lucky enough to be able to enjoy some days off in Ilulissat. It’s an astonishing beautiful place, famous for the icebergs that come pouring out of the Ilulissat ice fjord just round the corner.

Normally, we’re only in town for one night as we have to switch planes to get to our field sites and this requires an overnight stay so it has been brilliant to be able to use a little holiday here.

Panorama over the bay in Ilulissat on a sunny evening

I have been using the time to work on some papers and try to clear some of the back log of reports and emails, but there has at least been some time for a couple of hikes in the back country nearby. I could post several hundred photos of icebergs and other magnificent views, but I was struck by the movement of icebergs in the bay outside my window while I was working yesterday.

Sometimes the big bergs seemed to move more, sometimes they seem stuck. I wanted to check this so I set up a time lapse on my tablet in the window of the guest house I’m staying in overnight (bearing in mind it’s the Polar Day so doesn’t actually get dark). I think it actually ran out of power before covering the full six hours I set it up for, so I’m now trying a full day. However, it was enough to show my perception was basically right and I have come to the conclusion the changing movement is related to the tides.

You can see the full almost a minute long film at my peertube account below.

This is also a bit of an excuse to play around with video editing a little, in this case I’m trying out canva, and to advertise my peertube account @icesheets_climate on TILvids.com.

As I’ve alluded to before, I’m trying out the non-corporate social media fediverse and it’s actually quite fun, though the videos are a bit time-consuming so I’m not quite sure how regularly I will manage to post these on my channel, but the clue is in the name on what most of them are about I guess…

Another iceberg near Ilulissat, this time one we visited by boat…

But I have gratuitously many photos on my pixelfed account and no doubt more to come. I’m also planning some icebreaker shorts describing different elements of the environment that I’m working on. We’ll have to see how much time I have to actually get those finished, they typically take a while!

Of course, these are not just pretty pictures – I have a professional interest in icebergs – my PhD was about ice fracture and applying models of crevasse formation to describe a new parameterisation of calving. One of the projects I’m working on in northern Greenland, (funded by the danish state through the National Centre for Climate Research, NCKF) is also focused on calving processes, and specifically the role of ice melange in the system. In fact, one of the papers I’ve been working on this week analyses those iceberg related datasets. It’s immensely valuable and rare that I have the opportunity to be able to focus on the process in the field at the same time as writing the paper.

I have 2 more days in Ilulissat, so no doubt there will be more walks around town and more iceberg photos, but I have sent the iceberg paper back to my co-authors now, so it’s time to focus on a new paper – and the climate of the polar regions in the future.

The Greenland ice sheet